Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Bhutan - Paro and Thimpu

I've been MIA-ing cos I've been having an awesome 9 days in Bhutan and another 1 day in Bangkok (eating lots of thai food!) I've just got back from my first annual leave this posting on Sunday and I'm having major post holiday blues :( iPhoto uploader is down and I can't upload my photos onto facebook! I decided to go to Bhutan since they're so big on their Gross National Happiness and I could definitely use some happiness especially in the few weeks leading up to my annual leave :D
The national carrier for Bhutan is Drukair. It transits in Bangkok and flies to Bhutan via Calcutta though there isn't any time to go down to the airport during the transit. Takes about 4-5 hours from Bangkok.
The meal from Paro back to Bangkok - there was some vegetarian curry thing with lots of cumin which I didn't like (I'm extremely picky about food especially on flights) but their bread roll was soft and nice.
Their international airport is at Paro, which is one of their bigger cities.
Their largest city is Thimphu but it's still relatively small since their total population is only about 700,000 people.
View from the airplane window - the highest peak in Bhuatan is Gangkhar Puensum.
Bhutan is a very mountainous and there's lots and lots of greenery. It's also very peaceful and there's always pristine meandering rivers, golden rice fields, bright clear blue skies and fresh air +++ so it's a great place for relaxing and leaving all the worldly thoughts and wants behind. It's zen-ness +++ and it's like paradise on earth. Bhutan has just made its way onto my favourite country list and is on par with Japan, my ultimate favourite country in the world.
The traffic police man in Paro - no traffic lights here. Majority of the people can speak English as there's a national free education program up to standard 12.
Their national animal is the Takin (until I did my very minimal research on Bhutan, I didn't know that this animal existed). According to Bhutanese mythology, Lama Drupkpa Kuenley (who is also known as the Divine Madman) created this animal out of a goat's head and a cow's body. It's a rather docile herbivore. This picture was taken at the Takin zoo in Paro.
The Paro Fortress (the major attraction of each city seems to be the fortress, which usually houses a monastery and a government administration office. Tiger's Nest Monastery (aka Paro Taktsang) is perched on a high cliff a few kilometers away from Paro town, and is one of the most sacred sites in Bhutan. It is where Guru Padmasambhava made his second visit to Bhutan, on the back of a female tiger to tame a demon. It took us 5 hours for a round trip (including many photo stops and a break midway at the cafeteria) to get to the top with many rest breaks along the way but I'm very sure most people will climb it much faster. It was burned down in 1998 after a fire from a butter lamp broke out and the caretaker died (as was the case for the Victory fotress in Paro town too).

We were reading up on Trip advisor about the climb up to Tiger's Nest - it sounds as if it's terribly daunting but it really isn't so bad if the weather isn't so hot and it's not raining.
The Memoral Choten in Thimpu was built in memory for the 3rd King of Bhutan by his mother. When passing all religious monuments and prayer wheels in Bhutan, it is customary and respectful to walk in a clockwise fashion. The many coloured flags are supposed to be good luck. Apparently, the prayer beads used are also turned in a clock wise fashion too. There were alot of people in the temple praying it looked like a festival or some sorts.This is the Victory Fortress in Paro, which lie in ruins cos of a massive fire (where the caretaker also died). It's pretty creepy and I bet it's haunted at night. From the top you can view one of the ultra luxe and incredibly expensive (think USD $1,500 per night) resorts.Thimpu Fortress, where we attended our first festival. The building is divided into 2 parts - one is a monastery and the other is a government administration building. During the festival season, the rituals and dances are held in the fortress square.
It was a Sunday and the whole town was dressed in their Sunday best - to enter a fortress, the local Bhutanese have to wear their national costumes. The males were a Goa with a white sash and the females wear a Kira. They're having a security check and they're very strict about checking the males. Btw, the Goa is like a robe and doesn't have side pockets. Instead, everyone just stuffs their belongings into the front of the Goa.
This is one of the many masked dances done during the festive season and the dancers spin round and round in circles.
It's supposed to ward away evil spirits and bring good luck to the spectators. It was massively crowded in the fortress square, but the locals don't push or shove and everyone just sits in their own spot (some families bring mats or carpets) and watch the show. families with extremely old people and young kids all go to the fortress to watch the show, and its like a picnic - they'll come with chips, cucumbers, and lots of betel nuts and spend the day in the fortress square.
The Kira, which traditionally has a dress inside and a colourful blouse worn over.
Two Bhutanese boys in their national costume playing with a tourist's camera
The Thimpu market sells all the usual vegetables, meat etc but they have interesting foodstuff that I've never seen before. The strings with white rectangles is actually yak cheese. dried and coated in some white thing (I think it's mould?) and it's usually chewed by the locals (but most of them prefer betel nut chewing rather than yak cheese chewing). Many of the local dishes consists of chili and cheese (this soft, white creamy cheese). They also have butter (the brown parcel like thing in the middle of the shelf).
Close up of the yak cheese - it's extremely hard and has a gamey smell.
This is a starter for rice wine. The locals like to drink this home made wine called Ara. Ara is also given to worshippers in the temples (but the ara from the temples is blessed). I think it's some yeast starter for the fermentation process.
The old school way of weighing vegetables that we will never see again in Singapore.
The grains section of the market. The Bhutanese people usually eat broken red rice but they also have puffed rice, beaten rice and the equivalent of corn flakes.
Chilies play a big role in Bhutanese cooking, and their most famous local dish is ema datshi which consists of chillies and cheese cooked in oil. The locals dry their surplus chilies in the sun to store for winter.
The 108 stupas at the Dochula pass at 3150m above sea level on the way from Thimpu. 108 is considered as a lucky number.
Picture of how the locals make beaten rice. The unmatured rice grains are first fried over a wooden fire, and put into this rock with a depression in the middle, then pounded using these wooden sticks. Thimpu town from the top of a hill, taken with my star filter (best buy ever from Japan).We visited one of the local houses (this Bhutanese movie director that our guide knew) and he kindly opened his house to us. A traditional style house in Bhutan usually has 4 rooms, out of which 2 are prayer rooms.
The alter in one of the prayer rooms - the locals clean the alter and change the water daily.
Roasted corn in a shop by the roadside - the corn is not the sweet juicy variety but is a dryer strain. Lots of these holy water along the way. The locals will stop and take a drink from the holy water to cure sicknesses and for general health and well being, just like how some people pop lots of supplements. Just that this holy water is free :)
A shop in Paro with the 8 lucky Buddhist signs - a vase, 2 fish, a flower, a never ending knot, a flag of victory, conch shell, an umbrella and a colourful wheel. The government has a law where houses in Bhutan have to built in the traditional fashion - so you'll not be able to find modern buildings in Bhutan. It's an effort to preserve their culture, though the interior can be modern.
Betel nut being prepared - they're de-husking the betel nut which is imported from India here. Cigarette smoking is illegal in Bhutan, but somehow it can be quite easily sourced from India.


Bhutan is really an amazing country. The king is getting married tomorrow so it'll be a national holiday. I'll be covering the rest of my journey in the next 2-3 posts (hopefully) along with some of the food that we had along the way.

Sigh +++ to post holiday depression and going back to work and slogging :(

Thursday, October 6, 2011

Land of the Thunder dragon




On vacation now so no food posts for the moment. This is the view from the hotel room in Huangdue and it's nice and cool in the shade but not in the sun. The food here is totally different and my internationally adjusted palate doesn't agree with the food:( I forsee post holiday depression +++ especially since I'm going to be back to work on Monday...
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Strictly Pancakes

Totally enjoying my annual leave D2! I just went to Aoki for lunch (and whatsapp-ing the photos to a poor colleague stuck at work ^-^) Annual leave is even better than school holidays - no need to worry about assignments, doing holiday homework etc! Best ever! I've been watching movies on my ipad and messing up my sleep cycle. Cant believe that I've worked without annual leave since January!
Finally tried Strictly Pancakes at Prinsep street - didn't attempt to go there before cos it's in CBD and the carpark's a pain. It still was a pain to park there on Sunday (I parked at Sunshine plaza, it's $3 per entry on Sundays) and took a short walk over. The seating's really limited and we had to wait about 30min (not like there were many other restaurants open around that area on Sunday morning, or we would have defected to another restaurant/cafe. It's a pretty interesting concept where all the dishes are pancake based and there's both savory and sweet pancakes.

Had the equivalent of Eggs benedict (can't remember the name of this dish, but it's essentially Eggs Benedict with pancakes instead of muffins). It looks a bit bare cos we got the Hollandaise sauce on the side. The eggs were nicely poached, not overcooked and still runny inside. It was also very reasonably priced. The pancakes are the thick floury kind which aren't really my favourite type but it worked well in absorbing the runny yolks and hollandaise sauce so no complaints here.

We also added an extra side of mushrooms which were pretty good for the price (I think it was $2.50-$3 additional charge)
Each of the mains come with a choice of butter (herb garlic, unsalted and salted) as well as maple syrup. Makes it a bit more interesting instead of eating a whole dish of savory pancakes. Do note that you would have to pay an additional charge to add maple syrup/butter to the dessert pancakes (or those that don't come with this butter and maple syrup).
I can't remember the name of this dish but it's a sure-win combi of all of my favourite things. Pancakes, kinder bueno (my fave chocolate snack ever! especially mixed into Horlicks Ice Cream from Ice cream chef!) and nutella and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. The pancakes are special peanut butter pancakes which I really didn't like cos I found it too heavy going and a bit salty. They were quite stingy on the nutella spread. I think I'd have liked it better if it was plain pancakes with more nutella. The best way to eat this was to spread the 'innards' of the kinder bueno over the nutella side of the pancake and eat it with the ice cream.

Strictly Pancakes
44A Prinsep Street
63334202

Friday, September 23, 2011

Artichoke Revisited

One more call before I go on loooong annual leave! :D
I just watched Tree of Life yesterday and it was really one of the most painful movies I've ever watched! I was just thinking to myself barely 1hr into the movie that it was really sad that I wasn't at Universal studios (cos it was raining madly in the morning) and that the movie was like watching fragments from national geographic channel without any narration :(
Went to Artichoke again (?a month back) cos I was missing the dips and the lamb ribs.
They've changed their dips - tzatziki and hummus were my faves (always are) but I didn't like the carrot and walnut dip (don't particularly like carrots). Turkish bread comes separately for about $3 (but it's a small portion)
Fried Halloumi Cheese with came with some grilled vegetables - my first time trying this cheese. It's very firm and looks a bit like a tau kua. Taste wise it's not very remarkable.
My favourite dish at Artichoke - their slow cooked lamb ribs with mint yogurt with a scattering of pomegranate seeds. The lamb is very gamey so people who don't like the lamb smell please avoid this dish!
We had one of their sharing meat platters which totally made everyone so uncomfortably full. The meat platter is really very very filling, salty and oily. And gamey. It comes with chicken, lamb, sausages. Please don't order the lamb ribs and the meat platter cos you'll really overdose on the lamb. Other than that, I quite liked the sausage and the grilled cherry tomatoes.

Was wayyy too full to even think about dessert.

Artichoke
161 Middle Road, Sculpture Square
Tel 63366949

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Ramen Champion

The wonders of technology - I've been slacking off and maximizing my off days - and I've gotten a new addition to my Apple family. I spent my off day and post call day watching movies on it instead of catching back my sleep, but it's so luxurious to turn on the airconditioning, lie in bed and watch movies with the ipad on my tummy:)

Ramen Champion has been gaining much popularity recently after the Straits Times published an article on the 6 famous ramen stalls from Japan battling it out to set up a store in Singapore. I've tried 4 out of the 6 ramen so far:Menya Ihora which comes from Toyama has this black shoyu (soya sauce) broth as well as a more traditional miso based broth. I tried the black shoyu broth and it has a really pleasant taste, and isn't oily. It sort of reminds me of brands chicken essence actually. The noodles are the curly springy yellow kind (the type I like, as opposed to the straight Hakata style noodles which are similar to the kind you'll find in Ding Tai Fung). They also had one of the best half boiled eggs with the nicely runny golden yolks.
Gantetsu - the 'stubborn' chef's recipe from Sapporo has a robust pork bone broth - I like the broth from this place the best and their signature ramen comes with the uslal bamboo shoots, sweet corn and freshly grated ginger. You can also choose to have butter added.
One of the more unique ramen is from Bario - it's superbly oily broth is tasty but slightly too salty for my liking (I suppose they haven't reduced the salt for the local palate). It's like the Menya Shinchuan Ramen style at Gallery Hotel where it's a huge heap of ramen with a equally generous portion of bean sprouts that's guaranteed to make the general population uncomfortably full. The broth is extremely robust and has a strong garlic flavour - you can even add additional garlic if you wish.
The thing I liked about Bario is the noodles which is unique - they're made from bread dough so it's firmer and flourier and they look messy and curly but tastes very good.

The other ramen I tried was from Tetsu (which I tried on my first visit to Ramen Champion). Their signature ramen comes with broth separated from the noodles, and you're supposed to dip the noodles into the broth when eating - very much like how you would eat cha soba. I really didn't like this one cos it was extremely extremely salty - felt like I was a salted dried fish after this and I needed to get a drink asap. The egg was also a disappointment - it was overcooked and the yolk was all powdery and yucky (I hate eating hard boiled egg yolks which taste terrible and are not worth the cholesterol).
I can't remember where I got these gyoza from but I think it was from Tetsu? They had this weird bamboo smell which I didn't like either.

Ramen Champion
#04-08
Opening hours 10.30am-11.30pm

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Hanayoshi


Had a delicious dinner at the month-old Hanayoshi, which is tucked away in Duxton Road. The simple wooden interior and Japanese decor is really nice.
Ordered the Chirashi don ($45++), and it came prettily presented, with perfectly vinegared rice, otoro (I didn't ask but it was so deliciously fatty and marbled) and uni (sea urchin). I also had the chawanmushi which was silky smooth and tasty. Didn't get a nice shot of it (partly cos I was using my iphone and not my S90, which I sadly left in another bag :(
The Salmon skin salad ($9++) was light and refreshing, and the salmon skin didn't have the oily taste. Comes with vinegrette dressing.The ice cream here is supplied by a secret contact that the restaurateur knows, and it's not ice cream but Gelato. I particularly liked the Ume ice cream ($8++ per scoop) which was pleasantly sour, not extremely tart and tasted very creamy. Very much like yogurt but it's plum! We also tried the green tea gelato and the peanut butter gelato, but my fave is still the Ume. I liked the mochi that came with the latter two:D
Since the restaurant is very new, it was pleasantly empty (apart from some other patrons in the private Japanese style rooms) so we had a nice quiet dinner. The service here is supberb and personalized. I think the lunch here is much more affordable than dinner, and the lunch sets come with a scoop of ice cream (do try the ume!)

Hanayoshi
21 Duxton Road Singapore 089487
Tel 62255567

Friday, September 2, 2011

Space @ my Humble House

Hello everyone who is bored enough to come to my dying blog. I've been eating lots of good food (my to eat list is getting longer and longer everyday!) but I've been procrastinating more! Somehow, my job doesn't pay me enough to get stressed but it seems like I've been stressing over it everyday! :( And I'm reminded how lousy my Chinese and how successful LKY is in abolishing all dialects in Sgp... But seriously, I really really really cannot understand how someone living in Sgp their whole lives can only speak ONE language (dialect! especially the rarer ones like Hakka and Hainanese!) How do they buy bread or roti prata or any other dishes for that matter?

Anyway, the pictures below have been edited with Lightroom as opposed to my usual Paintshop Pro 7 (which is so outdated!) I've been inspired by my colleague to learn how to utilize my totally underutilized macbook pro (which costs slightly less than my upcoming holiday).
Space@my Humble House is the poor sister of My Humble House where one can get local fare with a modern twist. Here's the Laksa with oyster and scallop and a very un-spicy but fragrant soup. Laksa again, and very expensive XO Carrot Cake with scallops and prawns. I found the chunks of carrot cake too large and floury. Smaller pieces = more surface area = tastier carrot cake.
Their famous Chicken Rice - I'm not a fan of chicken rice and the last time I ate chicken rice was when I was on call and didn't have any other choice. I suppose it's the thought that counts and it was free...
Their Herbal Jelly with Aloe Vera and lime juice. The aloe vera comes pre-marinated with lime juice but I was really dying to eat the Herbal Jelly. Big mistake cos the aloe vera is really very well marinated with lime juice and I hate anything citrus mixed in my food.
Their nice simple decor with green apples. And I now suddenly recall why I ate here - went to watch this magic show called Vsion which is staged by our very own local talent - it really exceeded my expectations - they managed to make a Lotus appear.

8 Raffles Avenue
Esplanade Mall
Tel 64231881